In the first 5 minutes we spent with Vogue’s Junior Fashion Editor Petta Chua we instantly understood why the magazine’s every move, every feature, every garment selection and every stamp of approval is revered. It’s not by sheer luck that someone makes it on to the pages of Vogue. And it’s not because you belong to a secret club. It’s because Vogue’s team dedicate their every waking moment to sourcing and discovering the best talent, and their best work. Day upon day, hour after hour is spent making sure that everyone and everything is seen and considered.
On that note, Petta has shared with us her feedback on Flaunter Emerging’s 2015 graduates. Congratulations to these students, selected as the very best by Vogue Australia.
I thought overall that this was a strong year of graduates. In saying this, I understand I am meant to choose a top 5, but am choosing instead to select only three incredibly exceptional collections.
These collections are undeniably unique. They have all struck the perfect balance between selling a fashion message and creating something wearable. These designers have a strong understanding of their brand. And lastly, each of these designers accomplished one extremely impressive thing, not just for a graduate collection, but for any designer: they successfully created desire. I want to either shoot or wear the clothes in these collections. I want to see the stories of these brands unfold. I will be keeping a keen eye on the following:
Aidan Renata – QUT
Youthful, fun, audacious but still with a sense of street luxury. I thought Aidan showed a restrained hand when it came to deconstruction, which was impressive. I loved the colours he used, a challenge to the ideas of a traditional masculine palate- the yellow and the pink were so perfectly x’ish. I found it very modern. To me he shows a real understanding of street wear, the pieces are punchy and lyrical, light and fun but with enough edge. Like 90’s hip hop, Like A Tribe Called Quest. You want to get up and move in those clothes.
Photo: Michael Greves
Jordan Anderson – QUT
I love the sense of irony this show has, it’s fun. Made me smile, made me want to turn the music up. The palette is easy to swallow even though the colours are so loud. The collection has so much character in it, I knew who the Elvrik guy was immediately. It reads to me like the 10th season this designer has done, not the first. Jordan struck the perfect balance between experimental and palatable. Retro sportswear via Jazzy Jeff and Wes Anderson? I won’t try to guess the reference points, but it was well combined to make something that felt very fresh, and had its own direction. Without a doubt the collection has confidence. I can see these pieces in stores – as is – NOW. Take the hint buyers
Photo: Michael Greves
Laura Spence – RMIT
Laura’s ideas were strong – the sashes, the bows, the embellished scrawl: Fame Seeker, the rolled red carpet a model held in her hand. The challenge was set- do we need to re-think our concept of “red carpet dressing” to question the loudness, the trashiness, the tradition, and our obsession with it? Certainly a strong concept, and the execution? Perfect! The clothes weren’t lost in the story. There was still a lightness, a sense of humour to the message, and this was nicely balanced out by a rich palette, and moreish textures. Underlying all of this there was a great wearability to the clothes, a great sense of how women want to look now. I want to own a dress, I want to buy into this rebellion. It has equal parts Vivienne Westwood guts, and new Gucci charm to me. I think it’s just wonderful.